Miami native Kristy Socarras Bigelow ships bread from Florida to fuel Denver's Cuban sandwich boom

Kristy Socarras Bigelow opened Cuba Cuba Cafe and Bar in Denver in 2001. Two decades later, her company operates six locations. The network serves approximately 1,000 Cuban sandwiches every week. To maintain flavor, Bigelow ships bread frozen from Miami. Staff thaw the dough, let it rise, and cure it locally before baking it daily in Denver ovens.

The sandwich has become a point of contention among Cuban Americans. The dispute centers on the presence of salami. Tampa residents claim the sandwich originated there with pork, ham, Swiss cheese, and Genoa salami. Miami residents argue the true recipe excludes salami and relies on pressed pork, ham, cheese, mustard, and pickles. Tampa City Council passed a resolution in 2012 to codify the Tampa version as the city's official signature dish.

Bigelow, a Miami native of Cuban immigrants, navigates this debate daily. She told Westword that customers have yelled at her on three separate occasions because her sandwich lacked salami. "I'm like, 'Are you from Tampa?' Because there's the Tampa Cuban and the Miami Cuban, and we like it our way," Bigelow said. She added that the argument reflects a slow loss of cultural connection.

Denver offers several variations of the sandwich. Cuba Bakery and Cafe in Aurora serves a large version where the mojo pork is the primary flavor. The sandwich includes mustard and pickles with a subtle presence. Diners can request a side of garlic sauce. The eatery serves the sandwich with potato sticks rather than fries. El Bohio Cuban Cuisine in Lakewood serves the sandwich on home-baked bread. It also offers a Medianoche, a version made on sweet egg bread similar to challah. The restaurant lists this item as the Midnight Sandwich.

El Bohio also offers the El Criollo Cuban Sandwich. This version adds lettuce, tomato, and mayonnaise to the classic ingredients. It is known as the Key West style. Tula's Tapas Food Truck serves a Tampa-inspired sandwich called The Cono. Chef Gabe Aragon created the item after a trip to Florida. The sandwich uses a Telara roll with mojo pork, Swiss cheese, and pepperoni. It is topped with homemade habanero pickles and lime aioli.

Jama Miami, led by Enrique Socarras, is currently on a brief hiatus. Socarras is the brother of Kristy Bigelow. The two were raised in the same Cuban community in Miami. Jama Miami will reopen on November 3 at the Eats on the Platte food incubator. The restaurant features a Cuban sandwich made with slow-cooked pork belly. The meat is seared until the exterior becomes crispy.

Other Denver locations include Sputnik, Oscar's Eats, and Blackbelly Market. These spots offer Cuban sandwiches on their menus. The specific recipe varies by owner. Some follow the Miami standard, while others experiment with local ingredients. The Tampa style with salami remains rare in the city. Bigelow's company continues to expand its presence in the Denver dining scene.

The choice of ingredients often depends on the owner's background. Miami natives tend to exclude salami. Tampa natives defend its inclusion. Denver diners can find both styles, though the Tampa version is harder to locate. The sandwich remains a staple on many local menus. Bigelow's team trains new employees on Cuban food and culture before they start working. She calls this process Cubanization.